The Energy Equation
One of the most important concepts in dog training is simple:
Don’t add energy to a behavior that already represents an energy overload.
Many common training mistakes come from doing exactly that—adding more stimulation to a dog who is already overstimulated.
What Does “Adding Energy” Look Like?
1. Punishment-based corrections
So-called “positive punishment” (adding a stimulus to stop behavior) may appear to work in the short term, but it often makes things worse over time. Why? Because you’re adding more intensity to an already heightened state.
2. Overstimulating activities
Puzzle toys, excessive “mental stimulation,” or constant activity can backfire for dogs who are already dysregulated.
If your dog is truly under-exercised, more activity makes sense. But if your dog is:
- Destructive
- Anxious
- Reactive
- Showing signs of trauma or separation distress
…then adding more stimulation is usually not the answer.
3. Too much interaction
Frequent walks, constant petting, or ongoing verbal engagement throughout the day can sometimes increase arousal, depending on the dog.
Every dog is different—but more is not always better.
Where Should That Energy Go?
Your dog needs a constructive outlet—something that:
- Channels their drive
- Creates connection with you
- Brings them back to a grounded state
Examples include:
- Tug (and letting your dog win)
- Pushing or working for food
- Collection-based exercises
- Structured engagement like “speak” on command or physical contact (jumping up appropriately)
A Word on Shock Collars
If a trainer suggests shocking your dog for behavior issues—walk away.
Shock-based tools introduce more intensity into the nervous system.
And remember:
Electric in = electric out.
We’re not trying to create more reactivity—we’re trying to create regulation.
These tools often:
- Increase stress
- Confuse the dog
- Worsen the underlying behavior
Balancing the Energy Equation
Not all activities affect your dog the same way. The quality of movement matters just as much as the quantity.
Fetch vs. Tug
Fetch:
- Focuses on chasing small, fast-moving objects
- Builds adrenaline and fixation
- Directs energy away from you
- Often has no clear “end,” which can create obsession
Tug:
- Engages you directly in the game
- Creates connection and cooperation
- Allows the dog to “win,” carry, and complete the hunting cycle
- Provides emotional satisfaction and grounding
Agility vs. Resistance Training (e.g., weight pull, drag work)
Agility:
- Fast, reactive, high-arousal movement
- Can increase excitement and intensity
Resistance training:
- Slow, controlled, powerful movement
- Builds focus, confidence, and grounding
- Helps resolve internal tension and drive
Think of it this way:
- Agility = turbulent energy
- Resistance work = calm, steady (laminar) energy
For dogs who crave intensity or conflict, resistance work can be deeply regulating.
Fulfilling Your Dog’s Biological Needs
Before focusing on “obedience” or manners, ask yourself:
- Does my dog have time and space to sniff, dig, and explore?
- Is my dog chewing in a way that relieves stress and engages the jaw?
- Am I exercising my dog in a way that both activates and resolves their drive?
- Has my dog had the chance to complete a “hunt” or meaningful task?
Behavior problems often come from unmet biological needs—not disobedience.
Absolute No-No’s
1. Squeaky toys
High-pitched, erratic sounds mimic small prey and can:
- Increase hyperactivity
- Reduce emotional stability
- Overstimulate the nervous system
2. Laser pointers
These create:
- Frustration (no “catch”)
- Obsessive behaviors
- Potential long-term anxiety or reactivity
Avoid them completely.
Final Thoughts
If you want real, lasting change in your dog’s behavior, focus less on control—and more on energy, outlets, and fulfillment.
When you stop adding energy to the problem and start channeling it correctly, everything begins to shift.
If you have questions about any of these concepts or want help applying them to your dog, feel free to reach out.
Photo by Josephine Amalie Paysen